Marcipan, Csoki

The range and selection of distinctive candy in Budapest is getting better each year.  In terms of traditional Austro-Hungarian candies, the Szamos marcipan shops are probably the most enduring and best of the confectioners...the mother ship is in Szentendre, but there are shops in some of the major malls, and a lovely little shop off Vaci utca on Parizsi.  See their website:

There are Mozart Kugeln shops in major tourist areas, on the Körút, on Vaci utca ... round, marcipan-based, chocolate covered, with a nut in the center, there now seem to be infinite variations on the basic design.  Salesgirls in kitschy 17th Century Viennese garb, decent coffee, generally best avoided for the sickening sweetness of the furnishings more than the candies.

On summer weekends when the Chain Bridge is closed to cars and turned into a pedestrian mall there are large displays of a range of wonderful gooey nut-based candies, more Middle Eastern than Western European, the larger picture above...vendors also turn out for other street events, including the Christmas Market and the festivals...

The Nandori Cukraszda makes terrific chocolate covered orange peel, On Raday utca, just beyond Bakats ter...good cookies and pastries as well.

Gerbeaud makes excellent ice cream but only decent candies.  Far better, far cheaper, try these three artisanal chocolate shops:

  1. Bullet Iz-lelo at Arany Janos 12 utca, a bit north the Gresham Palace.  A wine and candy shop with very high end products. Hungarian language website:

  2. Bullet Aztek.  This is a less upmarket and somewhat quirky shop/cafe that sells chocolates and that serves a range of hot chocolate drinks in a small café off the alley that runs between 19 Semmelweiss utca and 22 Karoly korut; on Karoly korut look for the sign announcing Csokolade above a doorway in the block south of Gerlcozy street. (#22 Karoly körut)  On Semmelweiss utca, it’s more or less directly across from where Vitkovics utca (the street to the right of the Gerloczy Café) deadends (#19 Semmelweiss).

  3. Bullet BonBon. And there's a great small artisanal chocolate shop at Iranyi and Veres Palne, with the less-than-heartening name of BonBon Manufaktura but product as good as you'll find in Budapest:


While the most visible candy shops, at least for tourists, are the Szamos marcipan shops, the imported Mozart Kugeln shops, and the splashy Gerbeaud display in its pastry shop, there are a handful of new fancy chocolate shops beginning to open up, tucked into hidden pockets and corners of the city...